Highways now wind through a large section of Alaska. But before they were built, hearty pioneers and sourdoughs forged through snow drifts and over river ice by horse-drawn sleigh and foot. The systems of roadhouses that once provided these travelers with shelter, food, and warm drinks have been unceremoniously replaced by gas stations and RV parks. But on the Richardson Highway, one couple, Annie and Mike Hopper, has restored one of the few remaining Alaska roadhouses and built a new year-round lodge above it.